In April I worked with my Simple Stitches beginners class on the Staycation Dress by Ellie and Mac Patterns. All the patterns I choose for my classes are size inclusive and from pattern companies that I know produce good quality patterns. I get asked by students a lot about how to get the most value out of these patterns. Between purchasing the pdf files and the printing process – patterns can add up in cost very quickly. So as I hacked a colour blocked variation on my Helen’s Closet Jackson Tee this morning, I thought about all the ways that you can use the patterns you have to get the most bang for your buck. Let me take you through the things that come with your patterns, easy twists you might not think of and fun hacks for turning your pattern into so much more than a single garment.
Your Pattern Comes With Extras Already
I choose the pattern companies that I use for many reasons, but one of the main ones is that most of them provide multiple options within a single pattern. The Staycation dress I mentioned above for example comes with two different neckline options, three sleeve options, and three lengths of skirt allowing you to make a peplum, knee length or maxi length dress. Technically that would mean you could make 18 different garments from the combinations of options they provide.
This is common with many types of patterns. Dresses, skirts and pants will come with different length options. Tops may have different types of sleeves. Sweaters may have neckbands or hoods and full length, tunic and cropped bodices. Many patterns will offer variations in pockets, waistbands, closures, etc. etc. All of this will be on the website description of the pattern before you buy it, so you will know what you can make from them.
Another reason I love pdf patterns is for their longevity. Unlike a packet pattern with tissue paper, you own the pdf file with digital patterns. This means you can print it as many times as you want and in as many sizes. I can make a garment over and over for as many people as I want in whatever size they wear. My mum and I are not the same size, but I have made the staycation dress for me and for her without buying any new patterns. I have used the same sweatshirt pattern from Petite Stitchery Co. to make a sweatshirt for my husband, my mum and myself. This becomes even easier and more cost effective if you use a projector set up for cutting out patterns too.
Add Ons and Company Provided Hacks
Many pattern companies also provide easy ways to upgrade or alter your pattern. The Jackson Tee I showed in the pic for this post has a free ‘add on’ expansion for a kangaroo pocket and a hood. Now this pattern can be a short or long sleeve t-shirt, a pull on crew neck sweater or a hoodie.
Ellie and Mac draft their patterns in a way that most of the dresses have interchangeable parts between their patterns. This means that you can take the bodice of one dress and attach the skirt of another – for example the Staycation dress can swap elements easily with the Tres Belle Wrap Dress. The sleeves are also interchangeable, so if you like the bishop sleeve from one pattern, you can move it to another.
Some companies make this interchangabiliity their main priority. George and Ginger have the Mix it Up Dress and several Switch it Up Bra patterns that are designed to let you go wild with the options they give you. Their switch it up bra patterns are even compatible with each other to allow you to mash up some of the fun back and front options.
Other Hacks From Designers
Many of these companies don’t just offer pattern add-ons or compatible pieces, they also offer step-by-step hack guides. These are done to show you the fun things you can make with twists on the original pattern.
Helen’s Closet is one of favs for this. With every pattern release she seems to always do a series on her blog showing the different ways you can twist and change the pattern to make more options. I have used her methods to add pockets to the Avery Leggings, to colour block the Jackson Tee, and as inspiration for many more makes. These hacks are so good that it has even made me return to buy patterns I hadn’t originally thought were ones that I wanted to make.
To get back to the Staycation Dress. Ellie and Mac has sew-along videos on youtube that show how to hack the pattern to make new things. I found five videos just for that one pattern that would allow you to try different sleeves, mash two dresses together or take the pattern and make a skirt. They also have at least three more blog posts with hack options including how to turn a dress into a cute separates set. These are all free resources you can utilise once you have the original base pattern.
Going Beyond Instructions
Finally, there is your own creativity and knowledge to dive into as well. As you get more experienced with making garments, you will also build a natural familiarity with how clothing is constructed.
As that comfort level grows it will mean that you can start to see where patterns can be altered or added to. I have mashed together shirts when I like the arms and neck of one and the shape and hem of another. You might see how the back of a dress could be changed from a zipper to a corset. You will learn how pattern pieces go together, so you can make the changes to add pockets, alter closures, change silhouettes and shapes.
The more you sew the more knowledge you gain and the more you understand construction and can start envisioning how to make the things you want to create. Maybe you will decide to learn how to fully draft your own patterns, or maybe you will take the ones you already have and shape them into what you want. Sewing is an art and you can have fun making it your own – there isn’t a right and a wrong, so you can change a pattern to suit what you want.
Happy Stitching!
The Coastal Stitcher 
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